VT 251: A Flatlander's Guide to Visiting Burlington

Lake Champlain

Ben & Jerry's Original Store

Beer and a sunset @ Foam

What is a flatlander, you ask? While it has different definitions depending upon whom you ask, I'm using the definition I was taught decades ago: someone who is not a real Vermonter (defined as not having been born or buried in the state). You can have lived in the state for decades but only achieve Vermonter status upon your death (although some would say no even to that). I am therefore a flatlander, and that should be taken into account as you read this.

Burlington is one of the most beautiful, tolerant, and food-and-drink-focused cities I can name, and as it is inherently more interesting than the area from which I moved, I have been hosting visitors pretty much since the day I arrived a several years ago. So, without much ado, I am sharing, in this special edition of my Vermont 251 exploration, my favorite touristy recommendations for folks visiting Burlington, including what to do in town, where to eat/ drink, and some ideas for excursions out of town.

Just a few things up-front for those not in the know...

• Burlington is located along the west shore of Lake Champlain, and sunsets over the lake are something to behold.

• It is both a hilly and very windy city (so, a raincoat will likely be more useful than an umbrella should it rain while you visit).

• Burlington is a very casual city, so don't worry about "dressing up" for even the best restaurants in town (I'm not sure I've seen anyone in a dress or sport coat around here -- but, because VT is so tolerant, it wouldn't be a PROBLEM at all if that's what you wanted to wear).

• Know that the food and craft beer scenes are noteworthy, and that the food at some of the breweries in town is top notch. But keep in mind that reservations should be made and operating times checked well before coming to town.

• Oh, and don't forget to bring your own shopping/ tote bags to carry whatever goodies you pick up!

What to do in Burlington: Downtown

• Grab breakfast/coffee. There are many good coffee places around town which open before most of the other retail stores. My favorites are:

  • Kru (at top of Church Street)

  • Black Cap (on Church Street) -- get their maple croissant if available (it's life-changing)

  • Burlington Bagel (on Church Street) -- not NYC bagels, but respectable and if you need a bagel, this is the place to go, in my opinion

  • August First Bakery -- amazing breads, pastries, and good coffee

  • Speeder & Earls (on Pine Street, no not exactly "downtown," but close) -- excellent coffee, and they have a great maple blend
    

• Explore Church Street and that area of town. Church Street is considered one of the US's best pedestrian streets and can not be missed.

  • Shop for local goods. A few favorite shops of mine:

    • Common Deer -- not ON Church Street, but close and a great local gift shop

    • Golden Hour Gift Shop -- tiny but fun, unique, great gifts and cards

    • Outdoor Gear Exchange -- for all your outdoorsy supplies

    • Homeport -- a great store for all things home

    • Thirty-Odd -- great store with fun and whimsical locally-made gifts by local artists (a little beyond the Church Street area, on Pine Street)

  • Relax and take in the scene/ vibe

  • Have some ice cream at Ben & Jerry's first retail store 

  • Eat a meal (or have more coffee) -- click here for recommended restaurants both on and off Church. Want a beer break, click here for in-town breweries.
    

• Check out the Burlington Farmer's Market. Given Vermont's devotion to local production, it's no surprise the farmer's market is excellent.

  • Saturdays

  • Eat brunch or lunch there -- plenty of ready-to-eat goodies
    

• Explore the Arts scene. If art is your thing, there are plenty of places to check out, including:

  • Burlington City Arts -- on Church Street

  • Fleming Art Museum -- at UVM

  • Kestrel Coffee on Maple Street -- cafe seating is located in a gallery space with frequently rotating exhibits

  • The Soda Plant -- a cooperative in the South End Art District
    

• Walk around UVM (University of Vermont)

  • Many folks visiting Burlington are doing so to check out the state's flagship University. Even if you aren't planning to take an official tour offered through the admissions department, it's a nice campus and walk. UVM is one of the oldest public universities in the US (established in 1791).

What to do in Burlington: Waterfront Park

Waterfront Park offers visitors a paved walkway/ bike path along Lake Champlain. The views across the lake are stupendous and cannot be beat. Other than walking/ running/ strolling, there are other things there, too...

• Take a boat ride to learn about Burlington & Lake Champlain. Cruises leave from Waterfront Park and require reservations. I've tried both of these and they are both excellent; just different:

  • Spirit of Ethan Allen cruise -- big boat (several hundred guests), offers sunset and dinner cruises as well as day cruises.

  • Sailing cruises on schooners, offered through the Whistling Man Schooner company.

  • Want to skipper your own boat (or kayak, SUP), contact The Community Sailing Center!
    

• Have kids? The ECHO Center is a hands-on science and nature learning museum right on the water.
  

• Want to bike ride? Rent a bike from a shop (link to providers here) and ride north until the causeway (9.8 miles), which will get you part way across the lake. And, if you time it right, you can even take the BIKE FERRY across to The Islands (yes, there are islands in Lake Champlain), where you can get ice cream or lunch. Don't want to bike that far? The views are beautiful all along the way.
  

• Want to be active on the lake? In summer/ warmer months, rent a sailboat, kayak, SUP at The Community Sailing Center.
  

• Eat & Drink with a view -- if you find yourself needing sustenance and hydration while checking out Burlington's waterfront...

  • Skinny Pancake -- a Vermont chain of crepe-focused eateries. Excellent.

  • Burlington Bay Market -- Get ice cream, a sandwich, or whatever you want here. They have excellent creemees (see next bullet) and views.

  • Creemee stands -- there are two places right near the ECHO Center to get yourself a Creemee -- Vermont's version of soft serve ice cream. Try the maple.

  • Foam Brewery -- beer, a nosh, and great views. What more need I say?
    

What to do in Burlington: Timing & Special-Interest Things

• Will you be in town for July 4th? If so, the city puts on a great fireworks display on the 3rd, over the lake.

• Most weekends in the summer have festivals in Burlington -- music, food/ drink-related, and there's even a Dragonboat Festival in August!
  

  
  

Eating & Drinking in Burlington

• Like Beer? There are many great breweries/ brew pubs in Burlington, some of which offer utterly delicious farm to table eats.

  • Burlington Beer Company , Zero Gravity (and Citizen Cider if that's more your jam) all offer delicious locally-sourced meals, and are walkable from Downtown -- meaning if you walk there you a) don't have to worry about drinking & driving and b) you can burn off some of the calories consumed!

  • Other places to enjoy local craft brews in Burlington include:

    • Foam Brewers -- with views of the lake, amazing fruity IPAS, and a growing food menu, this is well worth a visit. After all, hydration is key when walking along the waterfront, don't you agree?

    • Queen City Brewing -- adjacent to a pizza place called Pizza 44.

    • Switchback Brewing -- restaurant in development; wursts & pretzels are pretty much all you can eat there now.

    • Vermont Pub & Brewery -- some good pub eats here, too.

  • Don't feel like exploring these on your own? Take a beer tour!

  • Come for the annual brewer's fest in July!

• Like chocolate?

  • You may have heard of Lake Champlain Chocolates, which you will find on Church Street (and Pine Street, if you want a cafe experience); they offer very good chocolate confections (and delicious chocolate ice cream in the summer)

    
    

  • Nu Chocolates absolutely deserves a visit if you are a true chocoholic or aficionado (or are shopping for one). They are fancier, artisanal, and The Best we've got. (Check their hours, and not open on Sundays).
    

• Like to Dine Out?

  Burlington has a robust dining scene with enough great eats that I don't miss the NYC dining scene at all (except for Gramercy Tavern, my single favorite restaurant anywhere of all time). Here's a list of some of my current favorite/ recommended places to eat in Burlington:

  • For breakfast/ lunch, check out The Gray Jay -- Mediterranean/ middle-eastern themed treats and meals, which are delicious. They don't take reservations so be prepared to wait for a while if you aren't there early or late... But the wait is worth it.

  • For dinner, here are my current favorites/ recommendations:

    • Honey Road, owned and run by the same folks as The Gray Jay. Excellent food, reservations absolutely required (and not easy to get). Considered by many the best restaurant in town. Mediterranean and middle eastern flavors.

    • Hen of the Wood -- my personal favorite restaurant in town. Farm to table and admittedly a little louder than I'd like. The food is sublime (or has been in my experience). Excellent cocktails as well. Make reservations, or take your chances -- you can eat at the counter if there is room.

    • Pascolo -- Italian and very good. Excellent cocktails, too.

    • A Single Pebble -- Chinese restaurant with a twist. Considered by some the best in the city which is why it is included; it isn't my favorite, and I'd warn you NOT to get the hot & sour soup.

    • Bistro de Margot -- possibly the only white tablecloth restaurant in Burlington. This is a French restaurant with all the fancy french restaurant feels.

    • Leunig's Cafe -- This is Burlington's French Bistro and offers all the typical bistro dishes. I prefer it for lunch, but dinner is also good, and very popular.

    • The Farmhouse Tap & Grill -- farm to table American food, this place has something for everyone. A solid choice.

    • Bleu -- this restaurant is located in the Marriott Courtyard. I was loath to try it because why would I want to eat at a hotel restaurant? Well, this restaurant is independent and delicious. Try their lamb ragu pasta...

    • Santiago's -- Cuban restaurant with to-die-for cubano sandwiches. Everything, cocktails included, is great here. PLUS, it's open for lunch! Highly recommend.

    • Pizzeria Ida -- perhaps the best-tasting pizza I have ever consumed. Located in the Old North End neighborhood (662 Riverside Ave). Don't try it unless you are committed to a whole pie (no slices) and are prepared to pay for the quality (it's expensive). Check out the menu (it changes) online, and read more about it here.

    • Frankies -- I was so wowed when I tried this mostly small-plate farm-to-table restaurant that I wrote a review of it! I've now been several times, and have not been disappointed yet. If you can't get a reservation, they have seats at the bar.

Take a day trip (or two) out of town:

• Head south on Route 7: Shelburne & Ferrisburgh

  • Shelburne

    • Shelburne Museum -- Vermont's version of historic Williamsburg; sort of. A wonderful museum that deserves several hours of your time. (If you visit around Christmas time, they have an amazing light display, for which you need tickets).

    • Shelburne Farms -- an astonishingly beautiful place for a walk, or just drive to the Inn and see the view of the lake from there. This is where you get a taste of Vermont's pastoral beauty. Between May and October, you can stay at the Inn and have breakfast and dinner there.

    • Lunch & Beer at Folino's Pizza &  Fiddlehead Brewing.

    • Breakfast or lunch at Le Marche (try the rosti or any baked good) or Rustic Roots.

    • Vermont Teddy Bear Company -- take a tour!

    • If you're itching to get out in nature and want some great views, hike up Mt. Philo in nearby Charlotte (pronounced: Char- lot, with emphasis on second syllable). It's a steady but not-long climb up, and then back down. There's a road if you prefer, but the trail is well-maintained. Click here for information.
      

  • Ferrisburgh

    • Rokeby Museum -- learn about Vermon't role in the underground railroad... Open May - October

    • Dakin Farm -- a bit touristy, but you can taste and learn about maple production and buy all sorts of (mostly edible) Vermont gifts here.
      

• Head East, to Waterbury and Stowe: the views of the mountains leaving Burlington are amazing

  • Waterbury

    • Coffee at Black Cap -- have the maple croissant (you won't be sorry); this is where they are baked so they are even fresher and better than the one you may have tasted at their shop on Church Street in Burlington.

    • Visit the Ben & Jerry's Factory -- take a tour (or not), visit the gift shop, and do not miss their flavor graveyard (free).

    • Visit the Cabot Cheese store -- have tastes. Even if they don't offer a taste of it, be sure to pick up a bag of popcorn -- the Seriously Sharp Cheddar is amazing, and the Maple Cheddar is THE BEST! Trust me on this.

    • Lunch at Prohibition Pig (on Saturdays or Sundays) or get dinner there...

    • If you're in town for dinner, and like pasta, try to get a table at Gallus. Wowza.
      

  • Stowe

    • Walk through this charming town -- with a ski museum!

    • Ski the mountain (if conditions allow) or take a gondola sky ride to the top of the mountain for amazing views.

    • Rent a bike or walk the Stowe Recreation Path -- there's a covered bridge at the end!

    • Visit Moss Glen Falls -- it's a short and pretty easy hike up to the falls.

    • Have some beer and lunch at Von Trapp Brewing (and bier hall), or at Idletyme Brewing.

And now for the VT 251 info...

Burlington is Vermont's largest (and some might argue only) city. It is located on the eastern shore of Lake Champlain and is home to roughly 45,000 people. It was established as part of the New Hampshire Grants, and settlers started arriving in 1763. (Click here for fun & interesting tidbits about the city).