Dispatch: Lyon, France (Beyond The Gastronomy)
- donnaramadishes
- May 30
- 6 min read
Updated: 5 days ago
I recently returned from an amazing trip to Lyon, France. Because Lyon is touted to be the "gastronomic center of France," and because it is located within a day trip of three excellent wine regions, the focus of the trip was eating and drinking. And while it more than delivered on those fronts (read about that in this blog post), there is so much more to Lyon than just the food/wine. If you enjoy history, quaint European cityscapes, museums, and shopping, I can highly recommend a visit there. And, if you are up for some day-tripping, there is no shortage of charming medieval towns to explore.
Think of Lyon as a smaller, more approachable (and cheaper) alternative to Paris.
In the City
Lyon has many museums (history and art), ancient ruins, markets, great shopping, and a network of secret passageways. Vieux Lyon (old Lyon) is cobblestoned and alive with cafes, markets, and shops and a walk through it is well worth your time. Taking a walking food tour is a great way to learn about the city as well as its food-centric heritage and the importance of bouchons there (restaurants historically targeted to the working and lower classes which use cheaper proteins but still create delicious meals).
The top attractions include the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière (take the funicular up and enjoy sweeping views of the city), the Musée des Beaux-Arts (a wonderful fine arts collection), and the Musée des Confluences, each offering a different perspective on the city’s rich past and vibrant present. Paul Bocuse is one of France's most celebrated chefs and his namesake restaurant (located just outside Lyon) has been Michelin-starred for ages, and his namesake food hall is considered to be one of Lyon's "must see" attractions. I've read that many chefs go there to start their day and shop, but to be honest, it's not all that unique as far as food halls go and I wouldn't make it a top priority (but I'm not a chef). That said, if you are looking for great (prepared) items to bring on a picnic (or back to your Airbnb), or to grab lunch (many of the vendors have restaurants/ tables) this is a worthwhile stop; but know that it isn't an indoor market (as I was expecting it to be).
Because Lyon lies at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône rivers, it has been a crossroads of trade and culture throughout millennia and, in fact, there was a Roman colony founded there in 43BC (that settlement was known as Lugdunum), which prospered through the Roman period. You can visit some of those preserved public monuments, including one of the oldest theaters in Roman Gaul (circa 20BC), which I think is well worth your time. (Plus, it's right next to the Basilica, so it's not out of your way).
I very much enjoyed learning about and exploring the traboules in Vieux Lyon —they are secret passageways that once sheltered silk workers (1800s) and then WWII resistance forces and now serve as shortcuts and offer housing set throughout a hidden network of Renaissance buildings. Other things to do include taking a boat ride on one of the rivers, visiting France's largest public park (Parc de la Tête d’Or), segway tours, and for those interested in World War II history, the Resistance Museum of Lyon.
And just a little bit about the food in Lyon... If you want to taste the most-authentic Lyonnaise dishes, you should eat at a Bouchon -- Daniel & Denise is a good choice (there are several locations) or I also liked Bouchon Tupin, which is a "real" bouchon according to one guide (which is to say it is not touristy). Traditional dishes include: Pate en croute (foie gras), Œuf en Meurette (poached egg in a red wine sauce with bacon), quenelle de brochet, sauce Natua (this is like a giant pike dumpling with a crust, served in a shellfish cream sauce), cervelle de canuts (a herbaceous, slightly garlicky cheese with a base that has the consistency of burrata filling), and pretty much anything pink or red "praline" (not as sweet as American ones, and colored by beet sugar; my favorite praline treat was in a brioche -- give it a try with a cup of coffee). A good resource to help ensure you know what you are ordering is the French Food Dictionary ($2.99 for the e-book), which I downloaded and referred to many times...
Outside of Lyon
Aside from wine-region day trips, Lyon's location is convenient to the Alps, Provence, and Paris (thanks to the TGV trains which stop there). For our Lyon stay, we did several day trips and visited: Annecy (in the Alps), Perouges, Oingt, and Beaune.
Annecy (in the Alps)
Annecy, known as the Venice of the Alps, is a lake town in the northern French Alps. The quaint old town has many canals and medieval buildings, along with cobblestone streets, a castle (now a museum), and views of snow-capped mountains. Lake Annecy is 18,000 years old and one of the cleanest in Europe. It takes about 2 hours by train to get there from Lyon, and the day trip is well worth it.
Pérouges and Oingt: Medieval Towns in Beaujolais Country
Aside from the wines in Beaujolais, there are more than a couple of small towns worth a visit -- we visited two. Pérouges is a medieval city bathed in orange which is so picturesque it was declared by the French government to be one of the most beautiful villages in France. It is believed to have been founded in the early 1100s by a Gallic colony returning from Perugia, Italy, and became part of France in 1601. Since the 18th century, the population has dried up (there are very few residents today), but the government is committed to keeping it well-preserved, and it has been the location of at least one of the Three Musketeers movies. It's set on a hilltop and even in the pouring rain, its charm could not be missed.
Oingt is another tiny medieval town in Beaujolais declared by the French government as one of the most beautiful villages in France. It is in the heart of Beaujolais and well worth a visit (especially if you want to visit a winery). Unlike Pérouges, though, there are more shops and it felt like the type of place you could live. It is also part of the area’s “Golden Stone Country,” so called because many buildings were constructed using local limestone that contains iron oxide, giving the buildings a golden (orange) hue. It was lovely to walk through the village’s cobblestone streets, from the medieval entrance gate to the top of the town where the thirteenth-century castle, now the town church, looks out over the valley. Oh, and should you be wondering how to pronounce Oingt, it is pronounced like a nasal "waah" (like a crying baby/ duck quacking).
Beaune: A Burgundy Beauty
Beaune, located in the heart of Burgundy, is a spectacularly beautiful medieval town (touristy though it may be). We visited on a Saturday which happens to be Market Day, and the offerings were impressive. We went because one of the oldest mustard makers in the world (Edmond Fallot, since 1840), offers a mustard experience, during which you can make your own mustard (SO worth it if you like mustard). We arrived a little early and decided to check out the old town center -- and were blown away. The medieval Hospice (dated 1443) offers tours which I regret not having taken (nor having time to take it). While we didn't get any pictures of the town wall, I kid you not when I say it was a WOW. I will definitely be going back there one day, and suggest you visit if you are in the area (or have access to a car from Lyon -- it's about an hour and a half drive).
Some Final Thoughts
If you decide to take a trip to Lyon, I would recommend you stay someplace near the Place Bellecour, which is centrally located between the two rivers and has its own metro station. (Lyon has a surprisingly good metro system.) We were near there and it was less than a 15 minute walk to almost every place we went. The longest walk was about 30/35 minutes, which was actually a blessing in disguise as it helped us walk off the meal we were about to eat/ had just eaten. Uber is available, as are taxi cabs if you don't feel like walking everyplace. And while the food is simply amazing, it is less expensive than those same meals would be in Paris, New York, or even Vermont.
I hope that you will add Lyon to your bucket list (unless you have no interest in France, of course). I'll likely be returning. In the not-too-distant future.
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